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      News — Behavior

      Fido Fitness - It all starts with core strength

      It all starts with core strength.  Just like humans, dogs need to have a strong core.  Does your dog look good but not great?  Is your dog at the right weight, but just doesn't look fit?   Take a good look at your dog as he moves around the ring or around the yard.  Do you see a shift or roll on his back?  If you notice any of these things, your dog needs to strengthen his core.  

      Here are three easy exercises you can do in just a few minuets, without special equipment, to improve your dogs core strength.  In addition to improved appearance and performance, a strong core will reduce the risk of injury, improve gait and will literally carry your dog in their senior years. Here are three quick and easy exercises you can do with your dog on a daily basis that will improve core strength.  No special equipment is needed and you can run your dog through these in just a few minutes time.  I take my three dogs through them while I drink my coffee each morning.

      • Sit to Stand reps. ¬†This is an easy one, since most dogs already know how to sit. ¬†Ask your dog to Sit, then Stand, Sit then Stand. ¬†I have worked my dogs up to 3 sets of 10 repetitions each. ¬†The pace is about 1 second between Sit and Stand, then a little break before I start the next set. ¬†Make sure your dog is moving to the standing position using their rear, not their front. ¬†If needed, back your ¬†dog's rear into a corner or wall to ensure proper form. ¬†This is harder than you think for your dog. ¬†Start slowly with just a few repetitions and build up over a period of a few weeks. ¬†This is the equivalent of you going to the gym for the first time in months and lifting a lot of weights. ¬†The next day is not a good one...your dog will experience the same thing, so go slowly and make this fun.
      • Sit to Down reps. ¬†Otherwise known as "puppy push-ups". ¬†Put your dog in a Sit, then ask for a Down, then back up into a Sit. ¬†Work your dog up to 3 sets of 10 with about 1 second between the Sit and the Down. ¬†Remember, go slow and gradually increase the number of repetitions that you do.
      • Sit, sit pretty, stand and sit. ¬†This is the hardest but probably the most beneficial of the exercises. ¬†Put your dog in a Sit, the raise up to a what I call a "Sit Pretty" (or the begging dog pose!), then all the way up to standing on two hind legs, then back down to a sit. ¬†Start with your dog in a Sit and just try to move him up to a sit pretty position, the classic standing on haunches with front paws at his chest. For some dogs this is a very natural position that they perform nightly right around dinner time! ¬†But for a lot of dogs this can be very challenging. ¬†Use treats and help your dog up into a sit pretty. ¬†Support him with one hand on his collar and your forearm under his front paws. ¬† Just work and practice up to this position until your dog has mastered it. ¬†A few times each morning for about a week or so and your dog will be comfortable going to this point. ¬†Next add the all the way up on hind legs command and back down. ¬†Once your dog has mastered the positions you can gradually add more repetitions.

      TIPS   Use a clicker when you first start if your dog is not solid on the commands.  Marking the correct position and behavior makes it very clear to your dog what you are asking him to do. If your dog isn't solid on the commands Sit, Stand, Down or Sit Pretty (some people use "up") use a treat at their nose to lure them into the correct position along with a clicker.  For Sit, hold the treat over your dog's nose and move backwards, ultimately, their rear will hit the floor - it is at that exact moment that you click, then offer your reward.  I use both hand signals and the voice commands with my dogs.  If you are just starting, sometimes just the hand signal and lure with the click is best. 

      Once they understand the behavior, then you can add naming the behavior.  Ultimately, they will understand both and using hand signals or voice commands will be interchangeable.  Once they have mastered the commands try one day just using hand signals, the next voice commands...you will be amazed how smart your dog is and how willing they are to work!! What is your dog's favorite reward?  For some dogs it is treats, for others toys or tugging.  Mix it up and find out what your dog likes! Feed a portion of your dogs morning meal as training "treats"  or use healthy, nutritious treats when practicing these exercises.  This becomes a fun game for your dog and you aren't adding extra calories or junk food. Keep it fun!  My dogs LOVE this one on one time and they LOVE to work!   A version of this article was previously posted on Dog Mamma's

      Keeping Control in a Multi-Dog House

      I have just two dogs now, but at one time we had 4 and to say that at times things got out of control was an understatement. More often than not, regardless of the undesired behavior, it followed a familiar pattern. One or more dogs would begin doing something we didn't want them to do. The energy level would begin to escalate (times 4), and in a knee jerk reaction to stop the bad behavior, we would begin saying, then yelling "NO"! Looking back on it, I think the yelling really just fueled the fire. The result was that the dogs still did the undesired behavior, everyone was yelling and frustrated and nothing had changed.

      I decided I needed to take a different approach - I didn't want to be always yelling at my dogs and frustrated beyond belief. I am always the one saying "Do it with love in your heart" - and I realized I was saying it but not doing it. After tons of reading, and being realistic about what I could expect - I decided for our dogs the best approach was to give them something they COULD do, when they began doing something I didn't want them to do.

       

      I don't know what Mom is talking about in this post - I am ALWAYS good!

      I don't know what Mom is talking about in this post - I am ALWAYS good!

      I was realistic in that I wasn't going to strive for perfection, expecting them to never do any offending behaviors. I was just going to find a way to alter the offending behavior that was positive for them and doable for all of us. The change in response to their behavior needed to come from me. So for Biddy and Tristan the thing that they CAN do, that is positive and also puts a stop to ALL activity is SIT, STAY.

      Part of our exercise routine involves rapid fire SIT, STAY, DOWN, STAND and a few other things thrown in. Therefore, they associate SIT, STAY with something positive...as they usually get a treat or super love fest after doing it. In the show dog world you are encouraged NOT to teach your dog to sit. I think this comes from the fear that if your dog gets used to going into an automatic SIT, that it will sit in the show ring, which is a no no. Well, from the minute Biddy came home as a puppy she was (and still is) a wild maniac. In an effort to have some sort of control and stop the constant motion, I went against the show world grain and taught her a SIT. I also taught her a STAND at the same time. It has worked for us and she has never, ever, ever sat in the show ring...not even once! :)

      One of the biggest sources of discontent at our house was the after dinner cleanup time. As soon as I would open the dishwasher to begin loading in the dirty dishes the dogs would come racing over - sometimes from a dead sleep, and begin wildly licking the dirty dishes. Sometimes putting their paws up on the open door, then me trying to get them all off. As soon as you would get one back, the other would be up there. In about 10 seconds I'm frustrated, raising my voice, the dogs are pushing and shoving to the dishwasher, my husband joins in the yelling, the dogs sense that the fun will be over soon, so they are licking the dishes more furiously than ever...and this scene repeats itself every night, holy crap I've had enough!!!

      So armed with this idea that I would give them something positive that they can do in lieu of the offending behavior - I decided I was going to put it in practice and make a change. With a yummy treat in hand, I opened the dishwasher and then showed the dogs the treat...which immediately got everyone's attention. I then walked them about 5 feet away from the dishwasher and put them in a SIT, STAY facing the dishwasher. I set their treats up on the counter and began loading the dishes in. Each time someone would move forward, I would give them the "ACH" sound - which they understand WAY better than saying the word NO, and place them back in the SIT, STAY.

      It took about three days before we could make it through loading the dishes in without anyone moving. After I close up the dishwasher - I then call them forward for their treats - which is usually a piece of vegetable or cheese. We are now all in a peaceful state after dinner, no yelling and everyone is happy. For us, this concept of giving something positive that they CAN do has really worked. They are not perfect by any means. When things get out of hand, I have to remember that instead of screaming "NO" - I need to ask them for a behavior that they have a positive association with which is SIT STAY...something good always happens! My next "offending behavior" that I am going to try to tackle is the crashing into the wall on the way into the laundry room for feeding time. As they race towards the laundry room for breakfast or dinner, they have to make a turn, which they have decided to cushion by bouncing themselves off the wall, crashing into it like hockey players.

      I am constantly having to clean the dirty foot prints off the wall and they have nicked up the wood work in a big way. I've got to somehow slow them down...hmmm What offending behaviors are you trying to correct with your dogs? What has worked for you?

      To Click or not to Click?

      It always seems that there are a lot of really strong feelings in the dog world about just about everything out there.  Mixed breed or pure bred?  Raw or commercial?  And when it comes to training approaches it is no different.  I was surprised however, by the opposition and negative energy for "the Clicker".

      I am the first to admit that using a Clicker is not the be all, end all method for training your dog.  However, I also feel that it has a lot of value in certain situations.  I like using a "marker" to indicate to my dogs, that yes, they have done what I am asking them to do.  For the most part I always use my voice, with a higher-than-normal, enthusiastic "YES!"  I say it the same way all of the time, and they all know what it means.

      I use the Clicker when I am trying to teach a new behavior to my dog.  When I am doing this, I train in a controlled environment, with only one dog at a time.  What I mean by this is that I have my dog in a quiet, contained place with no distractions.  

      For me, this is the guest bedroom of my house or my fenced yard.  My dog is typically not on a leash and other dogs aren't present.....(so if they decide they are bored with the whole exercise and wander off...all is well!)  I have rarely used a Clicker when attending a dog training class or when training on leash in public as it is really hard for me to manage the dog, the leash, the Clicker and the reward!

      I feel it is an excellent tool for shaping behaviors in your dog.  I do a lot of conditioning and training with my dogs as well as conformation, agility and obedience.  So I bring the Clicker out when I am at home, trying to work on something very precise with one of my dogs.

      An example of this is a "Fix it" when my dog is going into a Free Stack.  If one foot is in the wrong position, I want to be able to indicate to my dog to move that out of place foot into the right position by saying "Fix It".  I start by moving the foot back myself and then Clicking the instant the foot touches down to the correct spot.  After repeating several times, I then touch the foot lightly with my toe and repeat the "Fix It" command.  As soon as my dog moves his foot into the correct position I Click.  Eventually, I can just point with my hand and say "Fix It" and the dog will make the adjustment.

      I like to use the Clicker, because I feel that it is very precise, more so than my voice, and is very definitive.  I think our dogs like black and white...and the Clicker is just that.  Once they "get it" using the Clicker it is a very short transition to using my voice with a "YES!" marker after asking for the behavior, and then another very short transition for this to become a habit and conditioned response to the command that has been given.

      I think it all depends on how you use it.  For me...my dogs know that a "Click" means they have done something right.  They also know that my voice marker "YES!"  means they have done something right as well. I find that on new behaviors...the consistency of the sound and the precision of the timing of delivering "the click" is the overriding reason to use the Clicker in the beginning.  

      Often the criticism of the Clicker is that you are always rewarding with food and constantly treating your dog.  I have to disagree with this. In the beginning when you are training your dog on what the Clicker means, yes it is done with Click and Treat, Click and Treat.  Same with the voice marker.  However, over time (and it is a pretty short time!) I replace a lot of the treats with other things/rewards that my dogs like.  These vary by my dogs and circumstances...from petting to play, tugging and continuation of the "game" what ever that may be at the time.

      My goal is always to use the Clicker to teach the new behavior, and then to continue to practice it all the time so that I am ultimately getting the behavior out of my dog without the Clicker.  I feel like a have been pretty successful in doing this with my dogs. I don't carry the Clicker around with me, nor do I carry treats around with me in my pockets all the time. Yet, I am able to practice these skills with my dogs regularly, have them respond they way that I want them to, and then reward with a lot of different things...praise, games, play, tug and yes sometimes treats!!! I did just recently bring my Clicker to dog class, and while it was hard as all get out to manage, I think in this instance it actually helped my dog.

       I have a dog that loves to train and work at home but has a lot of uncertainty in dog classes and the ring.  He is outgoing, loves to travel with us, walk downtown, hang out and have coffee  and all those things (I drink the coffee, he sticks with water!), but he feels pressure and uncertainty when he is in dog classes and the ring for what ever reason. I currently have him enrolled in a Basic Obedience Class just for the sole purpose of trying to help him overcome his nervousness in class/ring environments.  He knows all of his basic commands and is capable of doing everything that is currently being taught in class, but can hardly even relax and focus.  I decided on the third week of class to bring my Clicker with me and see if that might help him. Since he already knows the commands, I thought I would go ahead and Click and Treat him each time he successfully executed the exercise.  I was really pleased with the results.  Each time he did something correctly, I Clicked and Treated him.  He knows and understands the Clicker.  Amidst all the distractions and anxiety on his part, when the instructor called the command and he did it and I "Clicked"  I think he was able to connect to the Clicker....something he knows and really understand that "yes!  I did it, this is what she wants and I just did it!"  

      He was able to focus much more and seemed to relax a bit.  I brought it again for the following week and used it in the beginning of class but put it away at about the half way point.  The next week I just used it for the first few minutes of class, and I really feel he is improving, much more focused and relaxed. There is a wide cross-section of individuals in the class, from beginners, to middle of the roaders (that is me!) to long time dog people who have been actively training and working dogs for years.  When I brought my Clicker out I asked if the other students would mind if I used it for my dog, since I didn't want to throw any one else off in class.  No one else minded that I used it except for one other student...who wasn't concerned that it would distract her dog but rather was very dismissive of the notion of Clicker training...and told me so in as many words!  

      (Which is a whole other topic....as a parent I've never walked up to other parents and gave them my opinion on how they were raising their child, however in the dog world, it happens ALL the TIME!!!  What gives?!?!) So since she only objected to me and I wasn't going to distract her dog I went ahead and used it...and got the results I was looking for with my dog.

      So at the end of the day....I find the Clicker a useful training tool that has helped me get my dogs from Point A to Point B.  It will continue to be my choice when teaching new behaviors and I highly recommend giving it a try or at least doing a little research on how to use it properly.  Karen Pryor is the authority on Clicker training and there is a lot of really good information out there on how to use the Clicker for training. Just like people, every dog is different...I like to have a lot of  tools in my tool bag and this is one of them! Do you Click or not?